Postcard from the Netherlands: Feyenoord and Ajax set tone for Eredivisie campaigns

Feyenoord's home stadium De Kuip (above) and the Johan Cruyff Arena - home venue of Ajax - (below)

Feyenoord's home stadium De Kuip (above) and the Johan Cruyff Arena - home venue of Ajax - (below) Credit: Andrew Dempsey (ETPhotos)

Andrew Dempsey reports from the Netherlands

While many will know of the scale of the rivalry between Feyenoord and Ajax, I would imagine it is difficult to fully understand the hatred between the two clubs unless you experience it first-hand.

Games between these two iconic Dutch clubs are known as De Klassieker (The Classic) and the rivalry struck me in the face as soon as I landed at Amsterdam’s Schiphol Airport.

Away fans are usually banned from attending each game and violent clashes often mar these games in the stands. A quick search on YouTube would explain all.

Perhaps looking for a laugh at some youngish Irish lad (me), an officer at the passport desk asked what my plans were for the weekend in Amsterdam. Joke was on him - I was staying in Rotterdam anyway..!

But I’m sure you know what he was getting at… Then comes the curveball. 

“I’m off to watch the football,” I reply. His eyebrows were raised asking me who I was going to see. 

“Feyenoord tomorrow,” I say - which is met by a warm response as he looks to his colleague on his left. He’s clearly a Feyenoord fan. “And I’m off to see Ajax on Sunday.” 

His face soon drops.. 

Then he laughs and replies: “De Kuip (Feyenoord’s home ground) is the best stadium - but you must get rid of your ticket for Ajax!”. The scene was set - albeit jokingly. 



On Saturday, Feyenoord began their Eredivisie campaign with a home tie against newly-promoted Willem II at a sold-out De Kuip - or Stadion Feyenoord as it is officially called.

But De Kuip - as it is affectionately known - was built in the 1930s and while it has been renovated at different times through the years, it retains its iconic feel. In a way, it is just like the working class port city it finds itself in. 

Far from flashy but beautiful in its own way.

It is no surprise though when you consider it has held two European Cup finals, six European Cup Winners Cup deciders, one UEFA Cup final, the showpiece of Euro 2000 and the Nations League finals in 2023. It is like walking into a relic of the past.

Staying within 500m of Rotterdam Centraal, the sense of anticipation for the game built from early on Saturday morning. 



Feyenoord may have won the Johan Cruyff Trophy a week before against PSV Eindhoven but this was the first time they were playing in front of their own fans for a competitive outing this term.

Families, young and old, could be seen walking down the Coolsingel - the main boulevard in Rotterdam - fully decked out in club colours as the season approached. The excitement was palpable.  

And it was the same on the packed trams on the way into the ground as supporters basked in the sunshine which was getting a tad too much for me.. It was only 27 degrees!

The exterior of De Kuip is an odd one - with the tram dropping you right to the carpark - but you can walk around it with ease. And once you are inside, the place oozes character.

Old seats, caged in away fans and a lower bowl that was right on top of the players - it is easy to see why so many love the place. It didn’t take long for the place to fill either. 

Feyenoord won the KNVB Cup last season (Dutch Cup) and came second in the Eredivisie on 84 points, seven behind eventual winners PSV Eindhoven.

They also lost boss Arne Slot to Liverpool at the end of the campaign, with Brian Priske taking over as chief in Rotterdam.

I had no idea what to expect from a team I never really watched before and I would guess most in the ground were the same.

But there was still a buzz around the place with 47,500 fans packed into the ground.

That excitement only grew when 19-year-old Antoni Milambo opened the scoring as early as the 12th minute with a cracking strike.

Willem II were not happy to just turn up although - and their passionate fans made some racket.

Such is the age of De Kuip, its structure is quite old in parts, and once the Willem II ultras found their voice, the ground beneath - and above - us shook. 

Those supporters even got the moment they were dreaming of late on when Belgian Kyan Vaesan equalised to salvage a point.

Willem II’s return to the top-flight was worth the wait. And it was so engrossing that they likely did not realise VAR failed in the second half due to a ‘local communication error’ - nor did I to be honest!

Then Sunday came for Ajax’s opener against Heerenveen. 

The three-time European Cup winners endured a disappointing campaign last season - finishing fifth and a whopping 35 points off champions PSV Eindhoven. 

In fact, their season was already three games old before Sunday owing to their Europa League qualifier commitments as a result of their lowly league finish. 

But like Feyenoord, the buzz was there for the first game of their league season. 

Thousands packed the bars along the Johan Cruyff Boulevard before the game in scorching temperatures - with many thousand more inside the Johan Cruyff Arena from early on. 

And while it took its time to fill up, the pre-match atmosphere would put any English Premier League in-game atmosphere to shame. 

Heerenveen packed out the away end and made their mark with Robin van Persie taking charge as boss for the first time.

This was the former Manchester United and Arsenal striker’s first competitive game in the dugout as a senior first-team boss - and there was no bigger stage to do it on in Dutch football. 

Van Persie’s charges impressed in patches but his side were undone by a Kristian Hlynsson goal just before the half-time. 

It stayed that way until the end of the game, with Ajax boss Francesco Farioli coming out on top. 

While dull for the most part, it was a win for Ajax - which is a long way from when they were bottom of the Eredivisie after eight games last season.

Upon leaving the Johan Cruyff Arena for a train back to my Rotterdam base, it was hard not to think of how big the rivalry between Feyenoord and Ajax is when the clubs meet. 

While they will not play against one another for another fortnight or so, the clubs are never far from each other's thoughts - as much as they like to deny it.

Football is back in the Netherlands and do not be surprised if games between Feyenoord and Ajax make some headlines on these shores in the not so distant future.

About Andrew Dempsey

View Full Profile